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Review
Ben Benson's is just what you'd expect from a classic steakhouse: career waiters in grey smock-like jackets and white aprons who know just when to ask if you're finished eating, a steady din of conversation at lunch and dinner, and great slabs of meat, cooked to perfection, arriving adorned only by a thick-bladed knife (creamed spinach and mashed potatoes on the side). There's an encyclopedic wine list and traditional desserts that will make you wish you'd left more meat for the doggy bag. But along with satisfying your expectations -- as well as any carnivorous cravings you may have -- Ben Benson's is not just about red meat. The Rockefeller Center eatery also has skillfully prepared fish, offering a catch of the day that is mastered with the same care as the steak. That is, the restaurant starts with the best and merely enhances what is already there with healthful broiling and a simple sauce or smattering of herbs. There's grilled poached salmon and shrimp scampi. And a nice grilled chicken that comes with avocado and wild greens. In other words, though it may appear to be a meat-eater's paradise, it's a place that actually offers something for everyone. Consider, for example, a power lunch in which you are in control with a delightful Cobb Salad, a filling array of chopped meats, vegetables and bleu cheese. Lunch offerings also include daily specials from Monday's chicken pot pie to Friday's lobster cakes. While you'll want to enjoy Ben Benson's for its tradition, don't hesitate to go there for something besides beef. $45-55 per person
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